Two weeks ago we celebrated Semana Santa, or Holy Week, in Santiago Atitlan, marking one of the town’s largest events of the year. This week is celebrated by people all around the world, but Santiago’s traditional celebrations are a unique blend of its Mayan and Catholic history.
With the arrival of the Spanish in the New World in the 1500s, Catholicism gradually became a part of local culture. Yet, despite the resistance of Spanish missionaries, Catholicism in Santiago Atitlan has become a unique example of religious syncretism, or mixture.
Perhaps the most salient example of syncretism is the figure of the Rilaj Mam, more commonly known as Maximon (Mah-she-moan). Depending on whom you ask, Maximon is either the Catholic Saint Simon, Satan, a benevolent Mayan deity, or a sort grandfather of the Tz’utujil people. He has been demonized by the church, but is revered by many. He is a controversial, yet important, figure in Santiago Atitlan.
With the arrival of the Spanish in the New World in the 1500s, Catholicism gradually became a part of local culture. Yet, despite the resistance of Spanish missionaries, Catholicism in Santiago Atitlan has become a unique example of religious syncretism, or mixture.
Perhaps the most salient example of syncretism is the figure of the Rilaj Mam, more commonly known as Maximon (Mah-she-moan). Depending on whom you ask, Maximon is either the Catholic Saint Simon, Satan, a benevolent Mayan deity, or a sort grandfather of the Tz’utujil people. He has been demonized by the church, but is revered by many. He is a controversial, yet important, figure in Santiago Atitlan.
Maximon in his chapel next to the Catholic church
Maximon spends most of the year in the home of one of the members of the cofradía (confraternity, or religious brotherhood) that cares for him -- tourists can visit him there at the cost of a few Guatemalan Quetzales. However, during Semana Santa, Maximon emerges to join in various processions and ceremonies throughout Holy Week. You can find him alone or alongside Catholic figures.
Each day of Semana Santa has its special ceremonies. On Palm Saturday, men walk overnight to a village near the coast to collect fruit to adorn the town. On Palm Sunday, there is a procession to the Catholic church. On Monday during a ceremony, the cofrades (members of the cofradias) wash Maximon’s clothes in the lake. They leave the clothes to dry on Tuesday, and celebrate his redressing that evening in preparation for the next day’s procession.
Wednesday is a very important day; Maximon comes to the town center, where he visits the mayor. After several hours rest on a special reed mat, he leaves for his small chapel, located on the church square. On Thursday, people visit Maximon at his chapel, bringing offerings of tobacco, alcohol, money, and fruit. Later that evening he joins a midnight procession with Jesus, Maria Dolores, and San Juan Carajo -- the procession often lasts until very early Friday morning.
Each day of Semana Santa has its special ceremonies. On Palm Saturday, men walk overnight to a village near the coast to collect fruit to adorn the town. On Palm Sunday, there is a procession to the Catholic church. On Monday during a ceremony, the cofrades (members of the cofradias) wash Maximon’s clothes in the lake. They leave the clothes to dry on Tuesday, and celebrate his redressing that evening in preparation for the next day’s procession.
Wednesday is a very important day; Maximon comes to the town center, where he visits the mayor. After several hours rest on a special reed mat, he leaves for his small chapel, located on the church square. On Thursday, people visit Maximon at his chapel, bringing offerings of tobacco, alcohol, money, and fruit. Later that evening he joins a midnight procession with Jesus, Maria Dolores, and San Juan Carajo -- the procession often lasts until very early Friday morning.
Thursday night at the Catholic church, preparing for procession of San Juan Carajo
One of the most important days of Semana Santa is Friday (Good Friday), when Señor Sepultado is carried through the streets, following a special processional pathway. All that morning, the townspeople work to prepare the alfombras, a kind of carpet made of colorful sand, sawdust, and other materials arranged in exquisite designs that mark the pathway of the procession.
As the procession of Señor Sepultado is underway, Maximon is taken from his chapel and carried dancing throughout the town on the back of one of the senior cofrades, called the telinel. Later on, Maximon and Señor Sepultado meet in the church square, before Maximon is returned to the cofradia house. The procession of Señor Sepultado lasts until well after midnight on Friday, stretching into the early morning hours on Saturday. Finally, Easter Sunday is celebrated with a mass at the main church.
Semana Santa is a unique and eventful week in Santiago Atitlan. Check out more photos from throughout the week:
As the procession of Señor Sepultado is underway, Maximon is taken from his chapel and carried dancing throughout the town on the back of one of the senior cofrades, called the telinel. Later on, Maximon and Señor Sepultado meet in the church square, before Maximon is returned to the cofradia house. The procession of Señor Sepultado lasts until well after midnight on Friday, stretching into the early morning hours on Saturday. Finally, Easter Sunday is celebrated with a mass at the main church.
Semana Santa is a unique and eventful week in Santiago Atitlan. Check out more photos from throughout the week:
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